50amp Power cord issues

So I wanted to plug the coach into a 120v 20amp circuit so I removed the 50-30amp pigtail.

here is what I found:

The heavy blackened terminal is the neutral return.

So I planned to cut that end off and install a new one from Camping World

Cutting that cord is not easy.. I used this tool from sears and even with that it was hard going.

Here are a few photos of the wire prep, slit off the insulation (about 3.5inches)

Remove the fabric/nylong filler materials.

Trim the wires to length. I started with the white one and then trimmed the red and black ones and then lastly the green one. The color code is in the plug leaflet.

Surprise when I removed the stub of insulation on the white wire I found heavy corrosion...

compare that to the green wire.. nice and shiny copper...

at first I thought this was localized to the end of the wire, near the plug, so I cut off another foot of wire. no difference... in fact I found that the black and white wires were corroded.

I hypothesize that the black and white wires are the phase energized when running single phase and that this coach may not have its phase loads properly matched or maybe the previous owner didn't use the 20amp switch to put the load management into the low power mode.

So.. I'm resigned to install a new power cord, but for right now I need to rehab the cordset I have and get going...

So here is my last few wiring photos. I sealed the terminals with GE Silicone II clear product, this is a non acetic acid cure silicone.

tighten up all the screws.. and good luck...

Missing Gas Fill Line

So the RV is missing a gas fill line.

Took it to the fill station and blew a gallon of gas out into thin air.

The fill connection has no line connected to the back of the fitting.

What I took to be a propane gas grill hook up in that compartment is actually the disconnected fill line.

So.. hook it up and then put in a few gallons and see if it holds..???
 lets see what internet research yields...

Firstly the tanks in RVs are permanent installations and do not need periodic inspection, they are ASME rated.  (the small portable tanks are DOT rated and need to be recertified after 12 years and then every 5 years)

Ok.. so I hooked it up as is and it worked kind of.. yes fluid was transfered BUT.. also fluid was "lost"..

On inspection this hose was some sort of "non crimped" compression fitting ends to flare ends.

so basically you cut the braided steel reinforced hose to the correct length and then screwed on the "collar" and the "tapered compression" insert and then assembled those tightly together. That made your hose which is then used on the 1/2in flare gas fittings.

When I cut off the ends and reassembled and cranked everything down "tight" was able to fill with no leaks...

and low and behold.. no leaks or smell

I still need to buy a manometer and do the proper tests but for the moment this is OK.

Pictures to follow...